Mittwoch, 29. September 2010

Sarah Burton - a close look at Alexander McQueen`s successor

Back in May 2010, three months after Alexander McQueen's death, it was announced that Sarah Burton would take over as creative director.
Sarah has a clear vision of what the brand should be like because she had been Alexander McQueen’s right hand for 16 years. And it was she who completed the last ever collection by the designer showcased at Paris Fashion Week in March.
She understands the responsibility she has taken and wants to stay close to McQueen’s vision of fashion. She said:
"The creation of modern, beautifully crafted clothes was at the heart of Lee’s vision. I intend to stay true to his legacy.”
As she gears up to unveil her first womenswear collection for the Alexander McQueen label, Sarah Burton has revealed what to expect from her solo debut – and it’s not all angst and darkness.
I don’t think it has to have as much angst in it. I think it will become softer,” she says. “There will always be this McQueen spirit and essence. But, of course, I’m a woman so maybe more from a woman’s point of view. There’s always got to be some darkness, because otherwise you don’t appreciate what’s light,” she explains. "I’ve had a training in darkness, but I don’t feel that it’s necessarily a personal thing to me. I’m a bit lighter.”

And as for a typically theatrical show? “That was very much Lee’s territory – the spectacular show, in that way, I can’t try and pretend to be Lee. He was such a lovely man, and his mind never switched off. He was so important to me. You just wanted to make him happy, look after him,” she says. “Although I felt that I protected him, now I feel that he protected me.”

Burton’s first "own" collection will be shown in Paris on October 5th.

More facts on her:
- She was born in Cheshire, England, and is one of five children.
- Burton loved clothes early on: "I always drew dresses. I remember loving Richard Avedon's early Versace campaigns. I used to plaster my whole walls with them when I was a kid."
- She attended Central Saint Martins in London and studied print design.
- McQueen hired Burton straight out of school in 1997, and she began working on everything from menswear to accessories to footwear.
- Burton considers herself a workaholic, but in her spare time, loves to attend art exhibitions.
- Most recently, Burton has started doing needlepoint while watching TV.
- She is married to photographer David Burton.
- She has rooms full of Alexander McQueen pieces but dresses more casually in the office.
- She plans on proving that a McQueen piece, though theatrical, can also be wearable: "What saddens me in a way is that Lee had these incredible shows, but always under that there were amazing pieces you could wear, but somehow nobody ever believed it was wearable."

Sources: 1 2 3

Hm...isn`t it sacrilege to aspire to make McQueen "more wearable"? Wasn`t the big show part of the concept? Wasn`t it the show that made McQueen more ART than fashion (which is what made him the legend that he is!)? Seriously, if I want something "wearable" I`ll consult Gucci or YSL. There is more than enough "wearable fashion" out there (and most of it looks like it shouldn`t be worn by anyone).

McQueen was never only "all about darkness and angst". Just think of his successful Atlantis collection or his feather dresses!

I`m a bit disapointed that it all sounds so low-key. Of course, nobody can ever truly continue McQueen`s unique vision (or it would take a soul as tormented as his...) but what she says doesn`t sound as if she really wanted to carry on his legacy.

What do you think?

9 Kommentare:

Julia hat gesagt…

I have to agree with what you've said.
McQueen's work was art, wearability is not what his work was about.
The bottom line is that the brand will have to change because he truely is irreplaceable.

Marissa hat gesagt…

I think we'll just have to wait and see. I took her comment to mean that no one realized that McQueen's items actually are wearable, not that she wants to make them more wearable. At least I hope!

xo Marissa
(The Well-Appointed Catwalk)

Marissa hat gesagt…

I'm with you on the gowns! I was trying to be nice and point out the positive. I love opulence when Oscar de la Renta does it, but otherwise... yeah, you get a shiny, tacky mess!

Katy hat gesagt…

Hi, I kinda agree with you. Yes there are many designers that are designs "wearable". I always see McQueen's work more to the art. His work is something that irreplaceable:)

Veshoevius hat gesagt…

Interesting article. Well it was never going to be exactly the same was it? McQueen was quoted as saying that he designed his clothes trying to protect women by creating armour for them, an effect of watching the challenges his sisters faced growing up. As a woman Sarah Burton is bound to see things differently. But at least it is someone who has been so closely involved for all those years.

Maybe the runway collections were not so wearable (for those with ordinary lives) but I always thought the pre collections were very wearable.

Anonym hat gesagt…

I hope she doesn't make them TOO wearable. I loved his last collection.

Anonym hat gesagt…

i'll give her a chance and wait to see what she does, there's never gonna be another alexander McQueen i really miss him but the brand has to go on so lets see:)
very good post

love<3 claudia

Monique hat gesagt…

i agree with you, miss Mcqueen

Not Specified hat gesagt…

McQueen was a legend, so replacing him must be a hard job.. I find it inspiring that she comes from Cheshire, as that is where I live right now! I always thought there wasn't much oppertunities if you wanted a career in fashion around here, but this shows it can be done

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