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Belstaff invited me to their very cool & stylish showroom to check out the fall / winter 11/12 menswear during Fashion Week.
The collection is divided into two concepts; on the one hand, Belstaff`s Urban Mobility range combines style with new, eco-friendly must-haves related to the growth of the new world.
On the other, Belstaff`s Dangerous World mood addresses a world which could go dangerously close to self-destruction.
Urban Mobility mixes functionality and technology to engage with society`s positive trends. Natural fabrics, like 100% wool flannel, have ultra-thin micro-porous coatings, making them waterproof, yet breathable.
Many garments are waterproof in their own right. They are made of new-generation high-tech fabrics, which Belstaff has developed in alliance with leading textile manufacturers.
The Dangerous World range sees raw-edged coats, pea-jackets with crepe leather trims and details such as the new "self-cut" buttonholes.
It also features rubber tyre-effect pieces (a Belstaff exclusive), Vintage padded jackets and waxed moleskin blazers and jackets.
The brand`s attention to detail is seen in oxidised buttons and zips and perfectly matched self-found fabric linings, crepe leather reinforcements and carefully executed washes.
The collection also features sheepskin garments, which blend perfectly into this mood.
Lastly, biker jackets galore in homage to the brand`s origins, but this time "hard vintage".
Belstaff weaves its magic again: a great respect for tradition and history combined with awareness of our changing times.
Showroom Models
Picture source: my own pictures & Belstaff press
How do you like the collection?
My invitation
The Showroom
Minimalist industrial design
Models presenting the collection
Stunning german Newcomer-Model Richard Kranzin
The Collection pays tribute to Nicole Farhi`s long-standing heritage, reinterpreting the House’s signature trademarks – soft construction, natural fabrics and iconic outerwear – into a new contemporary luxury for men.
Traditional British textures such as Donegal tweed, Houndstooth and Herringbone are worked unexpectedly with linen into outerwear and tailoring. Detailing takes its inspiration from the sartorial traditions of Saville Row, to create sharp silhouettes with a soft construction and continental styling.
Outerwear combines bonded leather with wool and dense linen, and is moulded into iconic shapes such as the crombie and the trench. The show opens with melton wool coats, over-laid with detachable parkas in soft stone leather and waxed charcoal linen. The technique of fusing fabrics is also used in a leather parka bonded with linen, linen knitwear with needle-punched wool, and cable knitted wool jumper and peacoat with technical interlining. Luxurious texture is created with cashmere, alpaca and leather knitwear in rich ones.
The colour palette, inspired by the figurative painter Egon Schiele, of grey, charcoal and black is punched with indigo and cassis, olive and tobacco.
It`s the first collection of Massimo Nicosia, who became Head of Menswear for the brand’s Nicole Farhi and Farhi by Nicole Farhi collections in december 2010. Previously, Massimo headed the Menswear collections at Pringle of Scotland and Alessandro Dell’Acqua.
Nicole Farhi said of the appointment, ‘I am delighted to have Massimo as part of the team. As an Italian, he will bring a continental element to the Menswear collection, which I am very excited about. He has a sensibility very close to mine and we really understand each other.’
‘I am thrilled to be starting this new venture with Nicole and the team’ said Massimo. ‘I look forward to working with a brand that has a strong heritage and is known for its understated richness, through luxurious fabrics and detailing. The new collection will be taking this forward by applying innovative techniques to natural fabrics and knitwear, and developing a sharp silhouette with a soft construction’.
An amazing collection, so chic, contemporary and wearable!
Top 10 Picks
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Picture sources: My own pictures & Nicole Farhi Press
How do you like the collection? Are you as impressed with the amazing details as I am?
Burberry invited me to check out the Men`s Fall-Winter 11-12 Collection in their beautiful Milan Showroom on january 17th.
The collection`s title is "Burberry Weather Boys - A coat for all seasons", designed by Christopher Bailey.
This fall / winter`s colours range from black, dark charcoal, mid grey mélange, ink, thistle blue, bright royal blue, bright teal blue to mid brown, dark clove brown, loam, camel, honey, primary red, bright amber, tangerine, bright caper and natural white.
The fabrics are several types of wool, tweeds and twills, wool-backed brushed checks to fur, nylons, spongehand camel hair coating and sculptural doeskin.
Contrasting silhouettes dominate the looks; Oversize sculptural outerwear, blanket coats, tailored sculptural coats, oversize sculptural duffle coats, oversize leather-bound quilted duffle coats, cropped sculptural duffle jackets, cropped hooded quilted blousons, shrunken patch pocket blousons, cable knitwear and cropped contrast panel t-shirts are worn to slim leg trousers.
Ultra-soft Jaguar-printed mink is used for fur coats and fur caps.
Luxurious, spacious tote bags in alligator leather with wood details are a Must-Have for men this season.
Tailored, sculptural fur and wool coats with leather details combine the finest materials to create luxurious outerwear.
Thick profile soles make this season`s shoes chic and weather-proof. Details range from black leather with white rubber soles, leather tasselles, amber rubber soles and nylon & leather low-top trainers.
This season`s mens bags are blanket felt leather-trimmed large totes, nylon leather-trimmed tote bags, canvas leather-trimmed holdalls, tote bags and travel bags, dégradé alligator wood detail holdalls and tote bags, leather- trimmed fur tote bags and holdalls, sprayed alligator wood detail briefcases, canvas leather-trimmed wood detailing briefcases and faceted aviator sunglasses.
Coats in different colours of blanket check wool are the trendiest and youngest pieces of the collection.
Picture source: my own pictures
How do you like it? Are you loving the alligator bags and thick soles like I do?
